It's the dining room where you'll want to be spotted whilst in Paris. The crowd varies between waif-thin models with their booking agents and French elite from media and design. Recently renovated, the beloved fish house is a minimalist wood-paneled dining room found in most international cities - but that's where the comparisons end. Inventive fish creations are served-up for lunch and dinner within a parlor dining room of sleek wood tables and a super-cool bar for posing and prowling.
The Food
The menu, in the hands of Pierre Gagnaire, is explicitly devoted to fish but with more variation and abundance than before with selections such as oysters with foie gras, pan-friend or grilled sole or à la Duglurée (as well as the potatoes) by the private chef of the famous Rothschild family. First courses range from superb carpaccio of sea bass with sea snails and the clever Gagnaire-designed sandwich of tuna, poutargue (pressed tuna roe), bresaola, prosciutto, and fresh vegetables on brioche. Expect small portions of artfully presented food, as in a seafood gelée arranged with white beans or cod medallions in a martini glass with soba noodles and grapefruit. Main courses range from the classic langoustine with semolina to the unusual but delicious monkfish tandoori with turnips and honey cream.
Last Word
Acclaimed seafood restaurant mixes-up tradition fish-plates with unusual techniques for grilling and searing. BYO-supermodel or expect a difficult time with service.
